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    According to the attachment, Cameron, the vapor polishing is only
    for use on the edges and not on the faces.  <sigh><br>
    <br>
    Thanks for the trouble, though.<br>
    <br>
    David<br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">Cameron Kellough wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote cite="mid:52618E35.1020306@knology.net" type="cite">
      <meta content="text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1"
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      <div class="moz-cite-prefix">David,<br>
        <br>
        Solvent Vapor Polishing with Dichloromethane is directly from
        the old GE (now Sabic) plastics fabrication handbook.  I saw it
        a long time ago in the GE Lexan Fabrication handbook.  The
        procedure has been removed from current editions of the handbook
        due to the more stringent controls on dichloromethane.  I'm
        attaching the page from the old GE plastics handbook that I had
        an engineer at Sabic dig up for me.<br>
        <br>
        Justin may be right however that on a safety-critical part there
        is risk however since it was originally a manufacturer suggested
        technique, I'd guess<br>
        as long as no liquid solvent contacts the material that it will
        be alright.<br>
        <br>
        On 10/18/2013 02:28 PM, Justin Richards wrote:<br>
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cite="mid:CACQ9ThtJK3uUnpP8RH9ok__=kwv7w4Lc2sdOpb1pXP7tua9prw@mail.gmail.com"
        type="cite">
        <div dir="ltr">I would be careful and trust the manufacturer on
          this one. If the manufacturer says "this cannot be polished"
          or "you cannot remove scratches from this" it likely means
          "Don't try to polish or remove scratches from this if you care
          about it being able to protect life or property"
          <div> <br>
          </div>
          <div>Vapor, flame, or abrasive polishing can possibly degrade
            the material to a point where it will no longer stand up to
            projectiles (whether they be rocks, bullets, birds, etc), or
            cause the material to become brittle or less UV resistant
            (which is important for windshields, being outdoors and
            all).</div>
        </div>
        <div class="gmail_extra"><br>
          <br>
          <div class="gmail_quote">On Fri, Oct 18, 2013 at 2:21 PM, Erik
            Arendall <span dir="ltr"><<a moz-do-not-send="true"
                href="mailto:earendall@gmail.com" target="_blank">earendall@gmail.com</a>></span>
            wrote:<br>
            <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0
              .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
              <p dir="ltr">If you are using it as a guard or something
                you can buy a clear masking film from 3M that protects
                from scratches. </p>
              <div class="HOEnZb">
                <div class="h5">
                  <div class="gmail_quote">On Oct 18, 2013 2:19 PM,
                    "Cameron Kellough" <<a moz-do-not-send="true"
                      href="mailto:cameron.kellough@knology.net"
                      target="_blank">cameron.kellough@knology.net</a>>

                    wrote:<br type="attribution">
                    <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0
                      .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
                      On 10/18/2013 01:46 PM, David wrote:<br>
                      > You guys know of a way to get the scratches
                      out of Lexan, hopefully without having to replace
                      it?<br>
                      ><br>
                      > Thanks,<br>
                      > David Merchant<br>
                      ><br>
                      It can be solvent vapor polished with
                      dichloromethane.<br>
                      <br>
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    <pre class="moz-signature" cols="72">-- 
Burnt slap out on commercials.

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